Author: Grant Brothers Tree Service

So you walk outside, glance at your yard, and suddenly your crepe myrtle looks like it shot up overnight. It’s towering over the roof, leaning into the driveway, or just looking a little wild. 

This is totally normal. 

These trees grow fast and don’t always respect the space they were given. 

The good news is you’ve got plenty of ways to bring it back under control without turning it into a sad stump.

In this post, we’ll show you what to do if your crepe myrtle is too tall.

Signs Your Crepe Myrtle Is Getting Out Of Control

A crepe myrtle usually starts showing little hints before it officially becomes “too tall.” 

Here are some of the most common signs:

• Branches stretching into the house, driveway, or roof
  
• A canopy so dense that sunlight barely gets through
  
• Shoots popping up at the base and crowding the trunk area
  
• Branches rubbing together or tapping windows
  
• The shape starting to look bulky, uneven, or top-heavy

Also Read: How Do I Get Rid Of Sumac Trees?

How To Reduce Height Of Crepe Myrtle

Crepe myrtles don’t respond well to harsh cutting, so the approach should be gentle but firm. 

Here are a few techniques that actually help keep the height of your crepe myrtle under control and improve the overall look and health of the tree:

#1 Selective Pruning

Selective pruning is the best option for a crepe myrtle that is too tall. 

Instead topping the tree, you remove full branches at their base or prune the branch back to desired height. This instantly lowers the canopy without creating weird stubby growth points. 

Plus, it keeps the natural shape instead of turning the tree into a lollipop.

The best part is that you can remove taller branches that shoot up awkwardly while keeping the strong structural ones. Over time, this encourages the tree to grow in a more balanced way. 

A lot of people don’t realize this is the safest method for height control, and it works beautifully when done in late winter just before new growth kicks in.

#2 Thinning Cuts To Open The Canopy

When the canopy gets too thick, the branches become crowded and spindly. Instead of cutting the height, you remove some inner branches to open things up. 

This reduces weight, improves airflow, and slows down rapid upward growth because the tree is no longer fighting to find light.

A well-thinned crepe myrtle ends up looking polished and soft instead of bulky. 

Plus, sunlight reaches more of the tree, and you’ll notice the structure looking way cleaner almost instantly.

Also Read: What Trees Do Spotted Lanternflies Attack?

#3 Shaping The Tree Naturally

Shaping is really just guiding the tree instead of forcing it into something unnatural. 

Crepe myrtles already have a beautiful form when they’re allowed to grow with just a bit of direction. 

You can encourage a more elegant silhouette by removing branches that throw off the flow – things that bend weirdly, reach too far out, or look out of place with the main structure.

This step doesn’t necessarily shorten the tree dramatically, but it helps keep it visually balanced. 

Sometimes the tree looks “too tall” only because the shape is off, so fixing the structure makes the height feel less extreme.

#4 Removing Crossing Or Awkward Limbs

Crossing limbs rub together, create wounds, and eventually weaken the tree. Awkward limbs grow in strange angles or push upward in directions that don’t blend well with the main canopy. 

Getting rid of these improves the look and reduces the chance of brittle branches later.

This is also one of the easiest ways to prevent the tree from shooting up in a chaotic way. 

Once the unnecessary limbs are gone, the tree grows cleaner and more predictably.

What You Shouldn’t Do

If you’ve ever seen those crepe myrtles that look like someone chopped them straight across the top and left them with knobby club-like ends, that’s “crepe murder.” 

It’s the biggest mistake people make because it seems like the easiest way to lower the height.

But here’s the real problem: topping forces the tree to push out weak, fast, leggy shoots. Those shoots grow even taller the next season, and they’re more likely to snap in storms. 

Plus, the tree also loses its natural beauty and ends up with a misshapen structure that never quite recovers.

You don’t get smaller growth – you get uglier growth.

So yeah, avoid the flat-top haircut. The tree will thank you.

What To Cut – And What To Leave Alone

The easiest way to think about it is this: remove full branches, not parts of branches. 

If a branch is too tall, cut it all the way back to a joint or trunk. Don’t leave stubs sticking out. Those stubs create weak points, and the new shoots sprouting from them grow too fast and too tall.

Leave the strong structural branches that form the “bones” of the tree. These guide the overall shape and should stay in place so the tree has stability and symmetry. 

You’re mainly focusing on the tall outliers, the crowded middle, and the awkward angles.

A simple rule is to aim for a natural vase shape. 

It keeps the tree airy, beautiful, and far easier to manage long-term.

Also Read: Invasive Trees in Virginia

When Replacement Makes More Sense

Sometimes the tree is simply the wrong size for the spot. 

Maybe it was planted right next to the house, squeezed into a small garden bed, or placed near power lines. 

If your crepe myrtle naturally grows 20 – 30 feet tall, no amount of pruning will keep it permanently small. You’ll be fighting it every single year.

In that case, replacing it with a smaller variety is often the easier and better option. 

We recommend dwarf and semi-dwarf crepe myrtles, which stay between 4 and 12 feet and look just as stunning without constant maintenance. 

It’s a long-term, low-stress fix that saves you from battling aggressive growth forever.

Bottom Line

A too-tall crepe myrtle isn’t a crisis, and you’ve got plenty of options to bring it back into a manageable, gorgeous shape. 

Selective pruning, thinning, and shaping give you full control without harming the tree. 

Avoid the harsh topping cuts that lead to problems. And if the tree was simply planted in the wrong place, switching to a smaller variety is a totally valid move.

With the right cuts and a little patience, your crepe myrtle will look clean, balanced, and easier to maintain year after year.

Sumac trees look harmless at first, but once they start spreading, it’s like they take over your yard overnight. These things are survivors, they spread fast, pop up everywhere, and just when you think you’ve won, a dozen new shoots appear. 

But don’t worry, there’s a way to beat them. 

With the right timing, tools, and a bit of patience, you can clear your yard of sumac for good. 

In this post, we’ll show you how to get rid of sumac trees like a PRO.

#1. Cut Them Down

The first thing to do is cut the trees down as close to the ground as possible. 

You can use a chainsaw, handsaw, or even loppers if they’re small. The important thing is getting a clean cut near the soil line.

Here’s the catch, though: cutting sumac doesn’t kill it. It just makes it angry. The roots are still alive underground and will quickly send up new shoots. 

So think of cutting them down as the prep work, not the final step. 

You’ll need to treat the stumps or attack the roots next if you actually want them gone.

If you skip this step and try to spray or dig while the tree is still standing, you’ll have a tougher time reaching the root system. So cut first, then move on to the next move.

Also Read: Invasive Trees in Virginia

#2. Apply Herbicide To The Stump

Once you’ve cut the trees, you’ve got a short window (like five to ten minutes) to hit the stumps with herbicide. That’s when the plant is most open to absorbing chemicals down into its roots.

You can use something with:

• Triclopyr (like Crossbow or Brush-B-Gon)
  
• Glyphosate (like Roundup or a generic brush killer)

Dip a small paintbrush or sponge in the herbicide and brush it directly on the fresh stump. Try to avoid getting it on nearby plants or grass. 

The goal is to target only the sumac and nothing else.

If you’re not into chemicals, no worries – skip ahead to the smothering or digging steps. But if you’re okay using herbicide, this step can make the difference between a one-summer project and years of fighting regrowth.

#3. Dig Out The Roots (If There Aren’t Too Many)

Sumac trees spread underground through rhizomes, which are long, root-like stems that send up new shoots. That’s why one small tree can suddenly turn into a dozen. 

If you’ve only got a few plants, digging them out is one of the best ways to stop the problem early.

Start by loosening the soil around the stump with a shovel. 

Then dig down to find the thicker roots and follow them as far as you can. Pull out or cut off every piece you find, even small sections can sprout again.

It’s a workout, but super effective for smaller infestations. 

Once you’ve cleared everything you can, fill the holes and cover them with soil. You can even replant grass or other ground cover right away to help prevent sumac from sneaking back in.

Also Read: Tree Topping Risks And Alternatives

#4. Smother Or Starve Them Out

If digging or herbicides aren’t your thing, you can still kill sumac by cutting off its sunlight. 

Like any plant, sumac trees need sun to survive. Take away that light, and it’ll eventually run out of energy and die off.

After cutting the trees, cover the area with thick black plastic or landscape fabric. Make sure it extends several feet beyond where the trees were growing, since the roots can spread. Use rocks, soil, or boards to weigh down the edges so no sunlight sneaks in.

Leave it in place for several months, ideally a whole growing season. 

It’s not a fast fix, but it’s chemical-free and surprisingly effective. The roots will eventually stop sending up new shoots once they’re starved long enough.

This method works best for small patches or areas where you don’t mind having bare ground for a while.

#5. Keep Cutting Back New Shoots

Even after you think you’ve handled it, sumac trees can still try to make a comeback. 

Don’t be surprised if new shoots pop up nearby. When that happens, don’t let them grow tall. Just keep cutting or mowing them down as soon as they appear.

You’re basically wearing the roots down. Each time you remove new growth before it can photosynthesize, the roots lose a little more energy. 

Eventually, they’ll give up and die off.

Consistency is the secret here. If you keep at it for a season or two, you’ll notice fewer and fewer shoots appearing until the sumac finally gives up for good.

Also Read: The 5 Best Shrubs for Your Northern Virginia Landscape

#6. For Large Infestations

If you’re dealing with a big area full of sumac (like an overgrown lot or field) you’ll need a stronger plan. Cutting a few trees won’t be enough here. You’ll probably need to use mowing and herbicide together to get real results.

Here’s a simple process that usually works well:

1. Mow or brush-hog the area to cut down all the sumac growth.
   
2. Wait a few weeks until new shoots appear and leaves start to grow again.
   
3. Spray the fresh leaves with a triclopyr-based herbicide in late summer or early fall.

That timing matters because the plant is pulling nutrients (and chemicals) down into its roots before winter. You can also repeat the spray the following year if needed.

If you’re working on a large property, it might take more than one season to completely kill the patch. But once it’s under control, regular mowing or replanting the area with grass or native plants can keep sumac from returning.

Bottom Line

Getting rid of sumac trees isn’t a one-and-done project. It’s more like a slow and steady campaign. You need to attack both the top and the roots. Cut, treat, smother, and keep at it until the underground system finally gives up.

Oh and you don’t have to go full chemicals if you don’t want to. You can dig, cover, or mow your way to a sumac-free yard too. It just takes a little persistence.

Once the sumac is gone, keeping the area mowed or planted with healthy grass helps make sure it doesn’t sneak back in.

FAQs

When Is The Best Time To Kill Sumac?

Late summer to early fall is the best time to kill sumac. That’s when the plant is pulling nutrients (and herbicides) down into its roots before winter. 

Hitting it then makes sure the treatment goes deep and actually kills the root system instead of just burning off the top growth.

Best Chemical To Kill Sumac

Herbicides with triclopyr or glyphosate work best for killing sumac. Products like Crossbow, Brush-B-Gon, or Roundup can do the job. 

Just make sure to apply them directly on fresh-cut stumps or new leaves for the best results.

You’ve probably seen those flashy bugs with spotted wings hopping around your trees and thought, “Well, they look kind of pretty.” 

Don’t let the looks fool you, spotted lanternflies are bad news. 

These little troublemakers suck the sap out of trees, leave behind sticky residue, and can spread like wildfire once they show up.

In this post, we’ll go over what trees spotted lanternflies attack, how to spot the warning signs, and what you can do to protect your yard before things get out of hand.

Why Are Spotted Lanternflies A Problem?

Spotted lanternflies are sap-sucking insects, and that’s exactly what makes them so destructive.

They use straw-like mouths to pierce tree bark and slurp up sap, stealing nutrients the tree needs to stay healthy. Over time, that constant feeding weakens the plant, slows its growth, and makes it more vulnerable to disease and drought.

But that’s not all. As they feed, they excrete a sticky liquid called “honeydew.” 

It sounds sweet, but it’s anything but nice. 

The honeydew drips onto leaves, bark, and anything under the tree (cars, decks, furniture) and soon turns into a breeding ground for black sooty mold. That mold blocks sunlight from reaching the leaves, making it even harder for the tree to photosynthesize.

Also Check Out Our: Plant Care And Tree Cabling In Virginia

And because spotted lanternflies reproduce quickly, a few can turn into hundreds before you know it. They also move fast – spreading through vehicles, plants, and even firewood. 

That’s why they’ve become such a nightmare for homeowners, farmers, and landscapers across several states.

Their Favorite Host: Tree Of Heaven

The most common target of spotted lanternflies is the Tree of Heaven. 

This tree is like a five-star buffet for them. It’s actually an invasive species itself, originally from Asia. Because they evolved together, the insects are naturally drawn to it.

Tree of Heaven is easy to recognize once you know what to look for. 

It has long, feather-like leaves that can stretch up to two or three feet, smooth gray bark, and a slightly skunky smell when the leaves or branches are crushed. 

You’ll often see these trees growing along roadsides, train tracks, or abandoned lots since they spread aggressively and don’t need much care.

What Other Trees Do Spotted Lanternflies Attack?

Even though Tree of Heaven is their favorite, spotted lanternflies are not picky eaters. They’ll move on to other trees and plants once they’ve drained their top choice.

Here are some of the trees they commonly attack:

• Maples (red, silver, and sugar)
  
• Black walnut
  
• Willow
  
• Birch
  
• Poplar
  
• Sycamore
  
• Sassafras
  
• Cherry and other stone fruit trees (like peach, plum, apricot)
  
• Grapevines

Grapevines are especially vulnerable. 

Many vineyards have reported serious damage because lanternflies suck out the sap and leave behind sticky honeydew that attracts mold and other pests. 

That’s bad news for wine lovers and fruit growers. 

Maples and black walnuts are also high on their menu, which means even mature, healthy shade trees aren’t safe.

Also Read: Invasive Trees in Virginia

Trees And Plants At Risk In Your Yard

If you live in an area where spotted lanternflies have been spotted, it’s smart to keep an eye on the trees and plants in your yard. 

They’re attracted to sap-rich species, so fruit trees and ornamentals are often the first to suffer. That means your peaches, cherries, grapes, or even maples could be at risk.

Lanternflies can also move into gardens, attacking vines and shrubs. They’re drawn to plants that produce lots of sweet sap or have thin bark they can easily pierce. 

Once a few show up, they can multiply fast and spread to neighboring yards.

So even if you don’t have a Tree of Heaven nearby, you’re not completely safe. If your neighborhood or local park has one, there’s a good chance the insects will migrate over once they’ve finished feeding there.

Signs Your Trees Are Under Attack

You don’t need to be a tree expert to spot an infestation. Once you know the signs, they’re actually pretty hard to miss.

Here’s what to look out for:

• Sticky residue or shiny patches on leaves, branches, or the ground (that’s the honeydew they leave behind).
  
• Black sooty mold growing on bark or nearby surfaces.
  
• Egg masses that look like grayish, mud-like patches stuck to trunks, rocks, or even outdoor furniture.
  
• Sap oozing from wounds on the tree.
  
• Swarms of adult lanternflies clustering on the same tree trunk, especially late in summer or early fall.

The adult insects are easy to recognize. They have grayish wings with black spots and bright red hindwings that show when they fly. 

Also Check Out Our: Virginia Tree Pruning Services

The nymphs, which show up earlier in the season, are black with white dots, and later turn red and black before reaching adulthood.

If you start noticing sticky spots on your deck or car parked under a tree, that’s another big clue. The insects might be feeding high up in the canopy where you can’t easily see them.

How To Protect Your Trees From Spotted Lanternflies

There are plenty of ways to fight back and protect your trees from spotted lanternflies.

Start by scraping off and destroying any egg masses you find during fall and winter. You can use a plastic card or putty knife, then drop them into a mix of rubbing alcohol and water to kill them. 

Traps can also help during the warmer months. Sticky bands wrapped around trunks can catch nymphs as they crawl upward, but make sure to cover them with a mesh or cage to avoid accidentally trapping birds or beneficial insects.

If you have a Tree of Heaven nearby, consider removing it or at least treating it with an approved insecticide to limit feeding.

For large-scale problems, reach out to your local extension office or pest control professional. They can suggest safe chemical or biological controls suited to your area. 

And whatever you do, don’t transport firewood, yard waste, or outdoor furniture that might carry eggs or adults. 

That’s one of the biggest ways they spread to new areas.

Bottom Line

Spotted lanternflies will always attack a Tree of Heaven first, but they’ll also go after maples, walnuts, willows, grapes, and fruit trees as well. 

The earlier you spot them, the easier it is to keep them from taking over your yard.

So keep an eye out for those spotted wings, sticky residue, or egg patches, and take action fast. With a little attention and early control, you can protect your trees and stop these colorful pests from turning your landscape into their personal buffet.